Cotton: Complete Overview of its History, Popularity and Usage of Cotton

Cultivated for the last 7000 years; cotton is one of the world's oldest known fibres. Its comfort, beauty, versatility, and durability make it the world's most favorite natural fibre. No wonder, this soft, fluffy staple fibre is an ideal choice for clothing, textiles, bedding, and various other products.

Cotton is organic which implies that it is grown without using any synthetic chemicals. Thus, it remains one of the most widely used natural fibre in the world and continues to be the most popular fabric with consumers.

Let's delve deeper into the origins of cotton and how this natural fabric continues to rule the world:

The Rich History of Cotton

The use of cotton fabric is known to date back to prehistoric times. This soft, breathable fabric clothed the people of ancient India, Egypt, and China. Cotton was spun, woven, and dyed in India since ancient times with matchless skill, and its usage spread to the Mediterranean countries later on.

Cotton in Ancient Civilizations

Fragments of cotton fabric have been found at the sites of the ancient Indus Valley Civilization and Mohenjo-daro dating back to the fifth millennium BC. The Indus Valley farmers were the world's earliest cotton cultivators. It was one of the export items of this greatest civilization of the ancient world. In fact, at its peak, the Indus Valley Civilization flourished greatly due to the enormous cotton cultivation from 3300 BC to 1300 BC.

Early Cotton Cultivation Evidence

The earliest evidence of the cultivation and usage of cotton has been found at the Neolithic archaeological site of Mehrgarh at the foot of the Bolan Pass in ancient India (today in Balochistan, Pakistan) dating back to 5500 BC.

Cotton's Presence in the Americas

Some of the oldest cotton bolls were also found in a cave in Tehuacan Valley, Mexico, dating back to around 3600 BC. In the prehistoric site of Huaca Prieta in Peru; the cultivation of the indigenous cotton species Gossypium barbadense has been found to date back to 6000 BCE. The Spanish who came to Mexico and Peru in the early 16^th century and found the locals growing and wearing cotton clothing.

Cotton's Introduction to Europe

While the cultivation of this textile plant was widespread in India; cotton didn't enter into Europe until the late Middle Ages. In fact, it was in the 8^th century, during the Islamic conquest of Spain that brought cotton to the rest of the Europe.

The funny thing is that some European scholars, during this period, believed and even proposed that cotton was certain kind of "wool" that was produced by sheep. Herodotus, an ancient Greek historian and geographer, described Indian cotton in the 5^th century BCE, in his book Historia, as "a wool exceeding in beauty and goodness that of sheep."

Indian Cotton in Rome

Centuries ago, men and women in Rome were smitten by this soft fabric that reached them from across the seas. Soft to touch, breathable, and graceful on wearing; the Indian cotton inspired various fashion styles among the Roman upper classes.

The Age of Exploration and Cotton

When Christopher Columbus discovered America in 1492, he discovered cotton growing in the Bahama Islands which perhaps reinforced his belief that he had landed on the coast of India. By 1500, cotton was well-known throughout the world.

How is cotton made?

Cotton is a soft fibre that grows in a boll (protective casing) surrounding the seeds of the cotton plants. The fluffy fibres of the cotton plant go through several stages to become durable cotton fabric.

Harvesting

In order to make the cotton fabric, firstly cotton seed is separated from the boll. While in earlier times, this procedure was done by hand, however in 1794, Eli Whitney, the American inventor, invented the cotton gin; a machine that hugely accelerated the cotton separation process. The cotton gin could do the work 10 times faster.

Despite being cultivated since antiquity; the usage of cotton didn't become widespread until the invention of the cotton gin that mechanized the cotton production process and lowered the cost of production; ultimately making it the most widely used natural fibre cloth in the world today!

Ginning

Once harvested, cotton is dried out and the fibre is separated from the seeds using a cotton gin. Highly sophisticated machines harvest cotton bolls from the fields, and other hi-tech machines further separate the seeds from the bolls.

Much before machine harvesting, workers conducted defoliation; the procedure of taking out the leaves from cotton plants. Advanced, mechanized cotton gins can process up to 60 raw cotton bales that can weigh up to 500 pounds each. These efficient cotton gins separate the seeds from cotton bolls as well as remove filth. Once cotton is extensively cleaned of all impurities and consists of only pure cotton fibres, then it is transported to the production unit.

Spinning

At the textile production facility, raw cotton is carded; a technique of creating cotton fibres into long strands. Next, individual strands of cotton fibres (also known as slivers) are spun to produce a thicker cotton yarn. The procedure of making yarn from fibre is known as spinning.

Weaving

Cotton yarn is then subjected to different chemical treatments, or may be dyed later. Next, yarn is woven by interlacing strands on modern looms into a specific kind of fabric such as a T-shirt, jeans or a bedsheet.

In weaving, the warp thread (length-wise yarn) and weft yarn (crosswise yarn) are crossed over one another in a set technique in order to weave the required type of fabric. A machine designed to accomplish this task is known as loom.

Which countries are the leading producers of cotton?

India holds the distinction of being the largest producer of cotton in the world. The country produces about 6,188,000 tons per year. Besides, India also boasts of having the vastest region under cotton cultivation in the entire world. India's climate is extremely favorable for the production of cotton, specifically in the northern parts of the country. However, the yield per kgs/hectare are well below the global average. It is currently 501 kgs/ha which is lower as compared to the world's average yield of about 789 Kgs/ha.

China is the second largest producer of cotton in the world producing about 6,178,318 tons of cotton per year. At 3,593,000 metric tons, the USA is the third largest producer of cotton. The leading cotton producers in the U.S. are Mississippi, Georgia, Alabama, Arkansas, and Texas.

While the above-mentioned countries produce the huge majority of the cotton in the world, other nations, such as Australia, Brazil, Uzbekistan, and Pakistan produce more than one million metric tons of cotton per year.

Types of Cotton:

There are three broad types of cotton that are categorised on the basis of the length, strength and structure of its fibre.

Long Staple Cotton

Long staple cotton (LS) has the longest fibre. Its length ranges from 24mm to 27mm. Long staple cotton is used for making the finest and the most superior quality clothing. About half of the total cotton produced in the country is long staple cotton (LS). It is predominantly grown in Madhya Pradesh, Punjab, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Haryana, Gujarat, and Maharashtra.

Medium Staple Cotton

The length of the medium staple cotton fibre ranges from 20mm to 24mm. Major states in India that produce medium staple cotton are Uttar Pradesh, Maharashtra, Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, Punjab, Karnataka, and Tamil Nadu.

Short Staple Cotton

Short-staple (SS) cotton consists of fibres that are not more than 20mm long. While short-staple cotton is good for daily use, it is not as soft or superior as compared to other kinds of cotton. It is mainly produced in Uttar Pradesh, Haryana, Punjab, Rajasthan, and Andhra Pradesh.

Climatic Conditions Required for Cotton Cultivation:

Cotton is a tropical or sub-tropical crop that requires heat and plenty of sunshine. It prefers warm and humid climate and a long frost-free period. Hard-frost is detrimental to cotton cultivation; thus at least 200 frost free days are essential for the plant to mature! In India, cotton is cultivated as a Kharif crop (monsoon crops or autumn crops) that is grown in the major parts of the country - Haryana, Punjab, Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, Maharashtra, Karnataka, parts of Andhra Pradesh, and Gujarat.

Which cotton is considered as the best cotton in the world?

Egyptian cotton is considered to be one of the longest varieties of cotton available. The specialty of Egyptian cotton is that it is handpicked, thus, it leaves the fibres straight and intact which ultimately guarantees the highest levels of purity. As Egyptian cotton is not picked by machines, the fibres are stronger and more resistant to stress. Ultimately these straight and intact fibres are made longer to create finest of yarns without sacrificing the length. Thus unlike regular cotton which has more splices, in Egyptian cotton you get stronger, flexible yet softer cotton.

Considering all these elements, there is no wonder that the Egyptian cotton is renowned worldwide as one of the best cotton in the world. The unique climate of Egypt and the fertile soil of the Nile River has greatly contributed towards growing gloriously soft and durable Egyptian cotton.  

Besides, pima cotton is also considered as one of the finest cotton in the world. It is soft to the touch, ultra-durable, and wrinkle-resistant. The quality of cotton is categorized on the basis of its staple length. The longer the staple length; the stronger and softer the fabric would be. Egyptian cotton and Pima cotton are two varieties of cotton that are known for their staple length and softness.

Why is cotton popular over other fabrics?

Ever since the early days of cotton cultivation; this soft fabric has been revered for its lightness and breathability factors. It is a huge part of our daily lives and is the world's leading natural fiber despite being in the race with trendy artificial alternatives.

So what makes cotton so special? Is it comfort? Its moisture retention ability? Durability? It's all of that and much more! Let's have a look at why cotton is so popular over other fabrics and why it is greatly desired by companies, designers, and customers alike:

Highly absorbent and easy to dry

Cotton fabric boasts of heat retaining characteristics. Besides, cotton is highly water absorbent. What needs to be noted is that cotton also dries quicker than other fabrics such as silk; thus making it exceptionally moisture wicking. One can easily wash cotton in high heat. However, high temperatures during washing can cause shrinkage unless textile pre-treatment process is conducted.

Durability

Cotton is more durable in comparison to silk, however it is less resilient than wool. Its natural colouring is white or slightly yellowish and it is prone to wrinkling, rips, tears and pilling. In spite of that, cotton fabric remains one of the most prevalent and highly admired fabrics all over the world. Unlike other fabrics; the molecular structure of cotton strengthens when it gets wet. This implies that you can easily wash cotton clothes repeatedly without any worry of wear and tear. Cotton is often combined with artificial materials such as like polyester or nylon to create better fabric alternatives.

Versatility

Considering cotton is highly breathable and absorbent; it is most suited for hot and humid weathers. Its softness makes it an ideal choice for daily casual and formal wear. It is used to create a variety of garments ranging from dresses, bedsheets, shirts, pants, to saris. The best part of the cotton fabric is that it drapes well on any body type. Besides, cotton is also used to make corduroy, jersey, twill, denim, and flannel.

Eco-friendly

Cotton is an all-natural fiber that is biodegradable and renewable. Unlike chemical-based fibers; cotton grows well in several climates and is thus eco-friendly, organic and sustainable.

Affordability and Accessibility

Another reason that has perhaps contributed to its popularity is that cotton is relatively one of the least expensive textile and widely available fibres in the world as compared to other fabrics. There are nations and states whose entire economy depends on their cotton export. As an industry, cotton fabric supports the livelihood of millions of people all across the world; both directly and indirectly. Widespread farming of cotton in India and worldwide, makes it an easily accessible and affordable material.

However, what needs to be noted is that at times, the cheapest cotton that you find in the market, is perhaps not produced sustainably. After all, premium quality of cotton would definitely cost much more. For instance, extra-long-staple (ELS) cotton variety is more expensive than traditional short-staple cotton as it is softer and more luxurious cotton. Examples of extra-long-staple cotton include Egyptian and Pima cotton.

Ideal for Printing

Cotton is a natural fiber that has the ability to absorb colors and retain them permanently after some natural steaming process. While polyester can melt when it reaches a high temperature; cotton remains strong. It can withstand the application of inks, stress, heat and pressure. Cotton can accommodate any type of printing technique - screen printing, embroidery and more!

The Fabric of our Lives

Did you know that around 75 percent of the clothing items in the world contain at least certain amount of cotton? In other words, cotton is the most extensively used fabric all over the world. Manufacturers spin this soft, breathable fabric into a countless range of beautiful items.

For instance, majority of T-shirts for men and women comprise of certain amount of cotton. Did you know that your favorite blue jeans is pure cotton? Cotton is used to make towels, bedsheets, bathrobes, curtains, blankets, duvets, bathmats and what not! Manufacturers even use this fabric to create home decor items. In addition, cotton is also used to produce medical goods and industrial thread and tarps. In short, this ubiquitous fabric can be used to practically make any kind of textile!

From the sheets you sleep on to the clothes you wear, cotton fabric is everywhere! No wonder, we call the ubiquitous cotton as the fabric of our lives!